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Miscellaneous notes/tips on
finishing kits:
Do NOT force weights into holes. If there
by chance is some sprue/flashing on the lead it must be removed
before insertion. Salty's is not responsible for cracked lure
bodies due to improper assembly/care taken during assembly-these
are kits..made on high precision cnc equipment but sometimes
things don't fit perfect-it is your responsibility to properly
assemble kits. Ya can't fit a square peg in a round hole :)
We provide you with the basic raw materials
and
pictorials to aid in assembly.
Finishing: There are many ways to finish a
lure. We highly recommend you dip your lures in something to
waterproof them. Thompson's waterseal will not work and anything
with wax in it is not recommended-we recommend
either Boiled Linseed Oil cut with mineral spirits, Tung Oil, Shellac,
Spar Urethane, Val-oil, or any kind of sanding sealer will also
work with multiple dips may be required-let dry properly after
each step..if you don't your paint/clear is likely to not stick
properly. Out of all the different methods for a home based
person to safely use I think the Minwax sanding sealer with
multiple dips between drying is one of
the best options. You can find this at HD, Lowes, etc.
After you seal your lures you need to
prime them. Try to use a color close to your base coat.
White/light lures should have white primer for highest color
clarity. Lures meant to be dark can be primed grey or black. Bin
spray primer in the red can is alcohol based and dries quickly.
This stuff will stick to just about anything. Just make sure
it's compatible with your paint. Try to stick to similar brands
of paint. Bin is available at HD, Lowes, your local hardware
store etc.
Paint can be Spray cans, Testors model
paints, Createx T shirt
paint, Acrylic paints from AC Moore, Enamels with a
brush, etc. It's up to you how fancy you want to make them!
Want to make scales? Go to a fabric store and buy a small amount
of fabric used in wedding veils called Thule. Clip over your
lure kit and lightly spray through the mesh. Let dry and remove.
We
recommend you topcoat your lure kits with either a thin coat of
30 minute epoxy, several coats of spar varnish, multi coats of
clear in a spray can, or some of the
new water based polyurethanes can work well also! Remember to use the
same brand of paints throughout to eliminate adhesion issues!
Basically the order in which you want to
finish the kits is to dip seal them, prime, base coat (white or
black), color coat, clear coat, final assembly.
Lips, grommets, weights ,etc can be glued
in with 30 minute epoxy, or any expanding polyurethane glue will
work also!
One tube of 30 minute epoxy can assemble
many lures-eyes, lips, grommets, weights, etc, and give you a
great clear coat when "drawn" across the lure using an acid
brush found in your local hardware store plumbing dept (or we
sell the good one's on the site here under the plug building
section). Cut the
bristles short and it will allow you to get a thin coat which
looks great and lasts well. We have the bristle brushes also in
our online store under the lure parts section.
If kids are doing the work remember to use
proper precautions-rubber gloves are a good idea when working
with glues, safety glasses if re-drilling through holes, etc.
Always use proper ventilation and follow manufacturers
directions!
COMMON SENSE PREVAILS! SAFETY FIRST!
It is your decision on how you want to
finish them, and we will not make recommendations beyond what
you see here.
It's what works for you!
I don't wish to have people be unhappy with something because it
didn't work for them and I recommended it.
If you have questions, register and
ask on our lure forum! This forum has alot of people that make
these kits on it!
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